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Sunday, June 8, 2025
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Blessed with a trinity of eggy Benedictions

Durban breakfast review

Frank Chemaly|Published

Eggs Benedict on crisp pancetta and toasted ciabatta at Col'tempo.

Image: Frank Chemaly

Eggs Benedict has come a long way from its origin as a hangover cure.

The legend has it one Benedict, feeling decidedly under the weather, ordered it at one of New York’s swanky hotels at the height of America’s gilded age. His request was for eggs on ham and toast smothered in Hollandaise sauce. The hotel obviously thought the toast was a bit beneath them and made such a glorious mess more chic with an English muffin. 

And while there are certainly better hangover cures, a whole range of delicious breakfasts have been created and are still enjoyed some 130-odd years later.

The base may change but the concept of luxuriously draping eggs in a sauce of more eggs and butter remains. Bacon is a common replacement for ham, and my favourite. I’ve had versions atop smoked salmon, seared tuna, fresh oysters, wilted spinach and a mushroom ragu. All hit the spot. One I do at home sits on top a bed of herby balsamic roast tomatoes with a hint of chilli. 

I was lucky to enjoy three different Benedicts at my favorite coffee shops recently.

Col’tempo

This little Italian deli and eatery in Morningside could be plucked straight off the Amalfi Coast and transplanted in Durban. We sit outside in the quiet courtyard under the vines and feel like we’re in a different world. The coffee is a testament to the Italian barista’s art, the aperitif of choice is an Aperol spritz. The pappardelle with beef ragu is legendary, as are their baked artichokes. 

Inside they make their own charcuterie and offer Italian delicacies from nougat to imported Gorgonzola. Their bottled artichokes are the best value in Durban.

The Benedict here has an Italian twist. On toasted ciabatta - which I prefer, as often the English muffin can become very doughy, especially if it isn’t toasted properly - are slices of crisp pancetta, two perfectly cooked, soft poached eggs, enrobed in a good rich Hollandaise. Simple, elegant and delicious.

And if like me you want something sweet after your eggs, try their olive oil cake, or orange cake or light fruit cake, or linger longer over another Aperol spritz. After all, Col'tempo means with time.

Food: 4

Service: 3 ½

Ambience: 4

Value: 4

Eggs Benedict on smashed avo at Boston Brew.

Image: Frank Chemaly

Boston Brew

This charming old Berea verandah home has become a thriving community coffee shop. Cyclists and runners in the mornings, mums after the school run, and mums and kids in the afternoons. You’re likely to meet someone you know. Everything spills out into the garden. Sadly the new McDonalds drive through across the road removes some of the park-like feel. 

But the coffee is excellent. My double espresso arrives coated in an enviable layer of rich crema. The baking is also notable. A variety of cheese cakes, crunchies, banana bread and croissants.

The menu is mostly vegetarian and pork free, so here I try their Boston Benedict, with the poached eggs sitting on a pile of smashed avo. It made for a lovely creamy version of the classic. There is also a mushroom version - which I can vouch is good. And I am sure they would do one with smoked salmon. My only criticism of eggs Onasis is that too often the salmon isn’t brought to room temperature first and the eggs get cold very quickly. 

This time I finished with a second cuppa and a lovely little pasteis de nata.

Food: 3 ½

Service: 3 ½

Ambience: 3 ½

Value: 3 ½

Eggs Benedict on wilted spinach and brioche toast from Humble Coffee.

Image: Frank Chemaly

Humble Coffee

Humble Coffee in Windermere finally has premises to match their excellent offering after taking over an interior design shop in Lilian Ngoyi Road and they’ve turned it into a buzzy vibrant space. Here keyboard warriors bash away at laptops under the warm winter’s sun. There’s a bar counter and plenty of chit chat at indoor tables, and a “boardroom” out back.

You place your order at the counter which is groaning with appealing baked goods. Raspberry white chocolate and tahini blondies, and lemon and coconut cake. The food offerings here are mostly vegetarian and include a superb cheese, red onion and mango pickle toastie. 

Service is bright, breezy and quick.

As I’m sipping a lovely rich and mellow cappuccino, I decide on their brioche Benedict. Two perfectly cooked poached eggs on wilted spinach and brioche toast, the brioche a nice slightly sweet foil to the savoury spinach. I enjoyed it immensely.

And for something sweet, a good slice of orange and almond cake.

Food: 3 ½

Service: 4

Ambience: 4

Value: 3 ½

PS: And the best hangover cure? For me it's always been a Virgin Mary, but if you're one of those who swear by the hair of the dog, make it a decidedly bloody one. Pair that with a Benedict and you're well on the road to recovery.

Our Restaurant Star Ratings

1. ★ (Poor)

Food Bad quality, poorly cooked or inedible.

Service Rude, extremely slow or absent.

Ambiance Dirty, uncomfortable or unpleasant.

Value Overpriced for what’s offered.

2. ★★(Below Average)

Food Mediocre, some dishes acceptable but others flawed.

Service Slow or inattentive, but not outright rude.

Ambiance Basic, dated or lacking effort.

Value Not worth the price.

3. ★★★ (Average / Decent)

Food Good but nothing special; some hits, some misses.Service: Polite but may be inconsistent.

Ambiance Clean and functional but not memorable.

Value Fair for what you get.

4. ★★★★ (Very Good)

Food Delicious, well-prepared with some standout dishes.

Service Attentive, friendly and professional.

Ambiance Pleasant, well-designed and comfortable.

Value Worth the price; good quality for cost.

5. ★★★★★ (Excellent / Outstanding)

Food Exceptional - flawless execution, memorable flavours.

Service Impeccable, warm, and highly professional.

Ambiance Stylish, inviting and enhances the dining experience.

Value Justifies the price with top-tier quality.