Durban – Can any of you guess what it cost to build the famous lighthouse at uMhlanga, on the North Coast, in 1954?
The princely sum of R23 838 – a serious investment back then to warn ships of the treacherous waters along this stretch of coast.
Today that sum would barely cover the hundreds of litres of red and white paint needed for the 21m-high landmark – not to mention ships’ modern GPS systems that make lighthouses more monuments than a critical service.
That said, however, ships lying at anchor use the red light to monitor their positions – if the light can be seen, the anchor might have dragged and the ship may be drifting too close to shore.
The bright beam can warn ships up to 24 sea miles away.
On November 25, it was 60 years since the Grand Dame was opened by Durban’s system harbour engineer and the SA Railways and Harbours departments.
Which brings us to the second piece of trivia. The lighthouse controls were originally set in the main office of the five-star Oyster Box Hotel, which was right behind the lighthouse and had opened a few months before it. Staff were in charge of monitoring, with reports going back to the port authorities.
Control of the lighthouse later moved to the port authorities, but even today the Oyster Box is considered the keeper and custodian of uMhlanga’s landmark. The property had begun life as the area’s first beach cottage in 1863.
Today the hotel is owned and run by the Tollman family, who bought it in 2006 and renovated it in a style authentic to the period in which it was built. The result is a modern five-star hotel that has features that hark back to a bygone era, like the grand revolving door at the entrance, the black-and-white chequered wooden floor and wrought-iron balustrades.
Spending a weekend at the Oyster Box reminds one not only of how warm and pristine the beaches are, but of the hotel’s prime position – with everything, from the pier to the surf and beach with lifeguards, a stone’s throw away.
The views from the balconies and bars are difficult to beat, with the Indian Ocean beckoning and the lighthouse centre-stage. The lighthouse’s revolving light casts its bright eye over the rocks and waves, but the rear half of the lantern room is enclosed so the light doesn’t affect the townsfolk.
It’s evident that the Tollmans are particular about the little details that take an establishment from luxurious to the personal.
In all the times I have stayed in hotels, this is the first in which I have found remote controls cleaned and sealed (for hygienic reasons) with every new check-in, hotel-branded shower taps, and tall, wingback-styled bar stools.
This Leading Hotel of the World member also seems to have adopted the welcoming nature of the lighthouse, affording locals the opportunity to pop into the restaurants, bars, and spa at will.
This is also the spot for the who’s who of Durban, with these facilities brimming every day with sharply dressed visitors.
Sunday lunch seems to be especially popular with uMhlanga residents, as are the decadent breakfasts – complete with a pancake and waffle bar.
The hotel offers a free shuttle service to the Gateway Mall. The driver, Vinesh, beamed with pride as he told me he had won the hotel’s staff rewards and training programme a few years ago and had gone off to the UK.
For more information, visit www.oysterboxhotel.com
Saturday Star
